He couldn’t refrain from laughing at the question. Amir, whose identity has been altered for his safety, had just crossed the Kapıköy border point in eastern Turkey, a mountain pass nestled between snow-capped peaks that serves as one of the primary gateways to the west from Iran.
Until a few weeks ago, this location bustled with activity, attracting Iranian daytrippers heading to Turkey to shop in the vibrant city of Van, a two-hour drive further west, or enjoy the Iranian-exclusive nightlife in discreet nightclubs and bars that serve alcohol.
Previously, there were numerous motivations for Iranians to make this journey, but now, barely visible behind Amir, was the barren black flag hoisted a month ago by the Iranian regime following the demise of supreme leader Ali Khamenei due to strikes from the US and Israel.
“Why?” Amir responded with a smile when asked about his decision to leave Iran. “Boom,” he replied. “Because of the war. Every night, they bombard.”
Despite the ongoing American and Israeli campaign, Amir, a 33-year-old foreign exchange and cryptocurrency trader from Tehran, harbored no resentment. “We need to overthrow the regime,” he stated. “Thank you to Trump,” he added wearily.
Amir, struggling to make ends meet in Tehran without internet access, remarked, “No internet, no job. I hope the bombing is effective. Every night, bombings. Nearby cities, industrial zones, and military bases, devastated.”
A pharmacologist from Tehran, en route to visit her three adult daughters in Europe for a three-month stay, expressed, “Everyone lives with anxiety. I dislike Trump, but this time he is right for the Iranian people. We are exhausted by the Islamic Republic of Iran’s revolution. Most people support Trump because he could potentially bring about regime change. We are weary.”
The Kapıköy border refuged a modest number of people fleeing Iran. The UN refugee agency (UNHCR) disclosed that nearly 64,000 Iranians entered Turkey between March 3 and March 30, with over 48,000 nationals returning to Iran.
“The current influx is significantly lower than pre-conflict levels, when daily crossings averaged around 5,000 individuals from both sides,” a UNHCR spokesperson commented.
Turkey has formulated strategies to handle potential border influxes by establishing buffer zones and tent cities to accommodate up to 90,000 individuals. Despite not yet being activated, there are four army and security checkpoints for travelers driving from the border to Van, with heavily armed soldiers patrolling the area.
Salvador Gutiérrez, the chief of mission in Iran for the International Organization for Migration, conveyed that people were relocating internally within Iran, primarily towards the northern provinces near the Caspian Sea.
Furthermore, he noted that individuals were returning to Tehran and other cities, revealing that state-controlled corporations essential to Iran’s economy had urged employees to resume work.
“If people struggle to access services regularly, this could prompt further migration,” Gutiérrez stated, highlighting interruptions to essential utilities post-attacks.
Although over 82,000 residential units and 180,000 individuals suffered from US and Israeli attacks, the subsequent economic downturn, coupled with existing sanctions, weighed heavily on those at the Kapıköy point.
Travelers passing through Kapıköy – mostly leaning towards the west, well-educated, and financially secure – did not necessarily reflect the broader sentiments in Iran.
Selma Ghaemzadeh, hailing from Maragheh in northeast Iran, remained proud of her resilient country amid recent attacks. Traveling to Van with her family for a short shopping trip, she declared the ongoing strife made her contemplate permanent relocation. Despite fears, she revered Iran as her safe homeland.
Other hesitant individuals refrained from discussing their feelings amid fears of surveillance, reflecting the climate of suspicion and enforced silence pervading Iran.
Among the passengers disembarking at Van train station from Iran, there was a mix of anxiety and determination. Soha, a jobless computer programmer fleeing bombs near her residence, underscored safety as her paramount concern.
In contrast, Arash lamented the absence of protective measures and recounted the perilous reality of civilians exposed to bombings without proper warning.
Amidst the turmoil, a couple returning to Iran from Canada, both doctors, opted for silence regarding their experiences. However, the wife, overcome with emotion, felt compelled to share her heartfelt account of loss due to the war, emphasizing its profound impact on every individual.
As she vowed to remain in Tehran for her father’s sake, she expressed gratitude for the chance to voice her story amid the chaos.
