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The meeting is set for the middle of the night at the bottom of the Arenal volcano, which dominates the La Fortuna region, in the north of Costa Rica. Officially, this area is prohibited, too dangerous, too fragile. Unofficially, the demand is there. For a price of 135 dollars (105 francs) paid in cash, some guides have been riding the wave of extreme tourism for around ten years, promising access as close as possible to the craters of the country’s five still active volcanoes which peak up to 3,400 meters.
To enter the area, we bypass the national park fences, crossing private land by bribing the owner. With the headlamp screwed onto our heads, we cross a dense jungle, then continue on steep black basalt slopes, sometimes requiring being climbed with bare hands. On arrival, the spectacle is worthy of the risk: sunrise, fumaroles, smell of sulfur, selfies with the promise of likes.





