Highlighter from a new range, nail polish in pastel shades for spring or even a new shade of trendy gloss… In terms of makeup, new products often quickly make us lose our minds and, with social networks, sometimes make us want to try everything.
But if testing new trendy products can be fun, they still need to correspond to our physiognomy, in other words to our complexion and our features. And for this, a theory exists: that of contrast.
In short, it’s a balancing game where we rely on colors according to our traits. The idea is to understand the shade of your hair, skin or eyes in order to find the makeup that matches your physical characteristics. If, at first glance, this may seem vague, don’t panic! On her Instagram page, makeup artist Aliénor Dervanian explained this theory and how to apply makeup according to its contrast.
What is contrast theory in makeup?
Comme amorcé in video debut: “If your makeup doesn’t suit you, it’s probably a question of contrast”. In order to explain her point, the beauty expert specifies that the contrast is “the difference in intensity between skin, hair, eyes and eyebrowsâ€. According to her, these differences in values include three levels :
- Low contrast: you have little contrast, that is, the same level of intensity between eyebrows, hair, eyes and skin. We can see this in Taylor Swift or Rihanna. In both artists the shades of their features are similar.
- Average contrast: you have “a little difference in intensity†in your features. They are rather balanced, like a medium skin tone with brown hairlike the actress Emma Watson.
- High contrast: these are people who have “a big difference in values†between hair, eyebrows, eyes and skin. This is for example the case of Anne Hathaway who has very light skin and dark hair.
How to find your contrast?
If you are not sure about your contrast, the makeup artist may have the solution for you. The idea is to take a photo of you naturally, facing a window and “rather without makeupâ€precise l’experte.
Ensuite, switch it to black and white. This allows colors to be removed and contrasts to be better analyzed. If everything is at the same gray level, you have low contrast. If there is “a little difference in intensityâ€it is a medium contrast. Finally, if the difference is obvious you rather have a high contrast.
How to apply makeup according to your contrast?
Once you know your contrast, the idea is to use makeup to balance your features and highlight them.
- Low contrast: “The idea is to keep this contrast low and therefore not add intensity.†specifies the makeup artist. In other words, Avoid too flashy shades and focus on soft colorslike pastels or pink tones. Think gloss, nude eyeshadows and creamy textures.
- Average contrast: “The best thing is to add a little bit of intensity to balance.†To do this, take inspiration from the looks of celebrity makeup artist Nina Park, known for enhancing Emma Watson, Mia Goth and Addison Rae. His signature? Brown tones and cream products. Opt for a beige blush, discreet contouring and voluminous lips with a nude pencil leaning towards brown, slightly blended.
- High contrast: ici, we rely on more intensity to balance the features. Accentuate the look with a line of eyeliner, and bring color to cheeks and lips. For example, a rosy blush as a balm and a similar shade on the lips with a tinted balm or lip ink for a bitten lip effect.
