It’s not Parisians who dictate fashion, says the New York Times

Paris, capital of fashion? Not for theNew York Times . In an article titled “Everyone thinks Parisians dictate fashion. Everyone is wrong,” published on March 27, the American media estimated that most of the influential personalities in the fashion world actually come from Belgium. There where the famous Antwerp Six met and formed. “Thanks to the Antwerp Six, Belgium has become a mecca for creativity in fashion. Thanks to them, aspiring creators from all over the world have come to train in Belgium. Thanks to them, the managers of fashion brands began to look for diplomas from Belgian schools among the CVs of the artistic directors they were recruiting,” argued Vanessa Friedman, fashion critic at the American newspaper.

The story of a group

It all started exactly forty years ago, in 1986. This year, six graduates from the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp left for London to set up several stands at the British Designer Show, the ancestor of London Fashion Week. The team includes six names who, today, have become absolute references in the fashion world: Ann Demeulemeester, Walter Van Beirendonck, Dirk Bikkembergs, Dries Van Noten, Dirk Van Saene and Marina Yee. Everyone brings their unique style, their own vision of creativity, their own inspirations. Fascinated, the British press baptized them “The Antwerp Six”, “Les Six d’Anvers” in French.

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And if you look closely, the New York Times is not entirely wrong since a large part of today’s greatest designers, who are often at the head of the collections of the greatest luxury houses, were trained in Belgium. In 2006, for example, the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp awarded his diploma to Demna, current artistic director of Gucci, ex-Balenciaga. Two years later, Meryll Rogge (Marni), Antonin Tron (Balmain) and Glenn Martens (Maison Margiela and Diesel) graduated. Although he did not obtain his, a certain Haider Ackermann, current artistic director of Tom Ford, frequented the establishment between 1994 and 1997.

To Belgium and beyond

La Cambre, one of the main art and design schools in Belgium, has also trained several big names who, today, shine on the Parisian scene. This is the case of Anthony Vaccarello, artistic director of Saint Laurent, who graduated from the school in 2006. Just like Matthieu Blazy, current acclaimed artistic director of Chanel, who cut his teeth in the styling, adornments and accessories workshop there, before graduating in 2007. Without forgetting Julian Klausner (Dries Van Noten), class of 2016, or even Marine Serre among the smaller brands. Raf Simons, co-artistic director of Prada with Miucciu Prada, completed his studies at the LUCA art school in 1991. While a man named Pieter Mulier, appointed head of the Versace collections at the beginning of February, joined the Saint-Luc Higher Institute of Architecture in Brussels from which he graduated in 2001.

Rétrospective

This shows the influence of the Six who, this year, are honored during an exhibition at MoMu, the Fashion Museum of the Province of Antwerp. An event that highlights the journey of these renowned designers who have transformed fashion. “The Antwerp Six have helped shape the recent history of fashion. We are extremely proud to be able to bring together their work in an exhibition that offers a unique and in-depth look at their legacy and influence,” said Kaat Debo, director of MoMu, in a press release. Six creators who could have been seven. Because in this generation, a seventh unofficial member named Martin Margiela had also studied at the Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp. The latter, however, flew to Paris, refusing to be put in a box (which his fashion will never cease to demonstrate), before founding his own brand in 1988.

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But let the most chauvinistic ones rest assured, France also has its share of talents. To name just a few: Alexandre Mattiussi (Ami Paris, trained at the École Duperré), Simon Porte Jacquemus (Esmod), Olivier Rousteing (ex-Balmain, Esmod Bordeaux), Charles de Vilmorin (Parisian couture union chamber and master at the French Fashion Institute)… Without forgetting all of these IFM students who, as tradition requires, kick off Paris Fashion Week fall-winter every year.